Wednesday 17th July 2024

Woke around 0830. Got up and showered before descending to the breakfast buffet…we sat out on the rear terrace. Caught a bus downtown, then walked to a No.28 tram stop in Baixa-Chiado. The route is recommended as a means of experiencing the old city, but means it is very popular and overcrowded. Luckily we just got on the first one that came along, headed east. But we had to stand for most of the ride which meant a very restricted view of any passing scenery.

Rode to the end of the line intending to ride back in the opposite direction, but the queue was long enough to fill about 6 trams, which would mean waiting up to an hour in baking sunshine…we opted to amble slowly back into the city centre, stopping for coffee and pastel de nata on the way. Found ourselves on the Parca de Comercio. Crossed to the riverside, and walked west toward the railway station at Cais Sodre. Discovered the nearby Time Out foodhall in the historic market...loads of stalls; opted for soup for lunch, and were lucky to find chairs and table to sit at...it was very busy. Walked on to Pink Street...a street painted pink. Then double-backed to the funicular at Ascensor de Bica...we were lucky. We were the last tram load to go up the steep incline before the driver went on strike! Wandered down to Baixa, picking up an ice cream on the way. 

Walked back to the hostel via the back streets. Booked a table at a nearby fado house for this evening's meal and entertainment. The Amego Machado has pedigree, going back to the 1930s, but not much atmosphere, save for the photos on the wall, and a large painting of three fado artistes that hung in the original fado house. We were first there, so were sat at a table for two right at the front. Dinner was OK, but nothing to get excited about. I enjoyed the caldo verde, but the bachalau was ordinary. Afew more people wandered in as we ate, but it didn't fill up...maybe about 20 of us altogether. The fado started at around 2100...the entertainment comprised several short sets, with male or female solo singers, accompanied by the house band, Portuguese guitarra, Spanish guitar, and acoustic bass. Really enjoyed it...though Aki got into trouble with the fado police. There was a speech delivered before the music got underway...you are allowed to take photos, but strictly no flash photography, and no video recording. The chap then flung himself into his set...Aki took a couple of photos, but inexplicably her flash went off on the third or fourth one, startling the singer momentarily...she signalled her apologies once the song had finished. He and the band went off for a mini-break, and the lights came back up. The band returned with a young female songstress ten minutes later, which went without mishap, but the third set, fronted by an older female singer, saw the guitarra player pulling faces at Aki, thinking, mistakenly, she was taking video...we escaped into the night at the following break. Aki asked the waiter to relay a message to the guitarra player, that she hadn't taken any video...the waiter said he didn't know why the performers made such a fuss..."We tell 'em to 'shut up and sing'" he said...