Wednesday 9th September 2026

Alarm at 0800. Got up and abluted. Descended to the basement for a disappointing breakfast…Kim and Shelly were already halfway through their repast. Kim then headed off to the gym! We returned to our room to pack. Checked out around 1000. I took on driving duty, and drove us south, through Piazza Armenia, to Villa Romana. 

Had a little local difficulty trying to get the gate into the car park to obey instructions…fortunately an Italian got out of the car behind and contacted the Helpdesk on the gate apparatus. Walked down to the villa in the midday sun. We were relieved to find that the bulk of the excavations were under cover, and the raised walkways guided us round the surprisingly large complex of baths, latrines, servants quarters, courtyards, accommodation and basilica. The whole place had been graced with floor mosaics, some in patterns, some more like vast paintings. It was breath-taking stuff. The ‘Bikini Girls’ didn’t disappoint! I was also taken with the depiction of what looked suspiciously like Rod Hull and Emu! 

We wandered back to the stalls near the car park and sat with some lunch…Aki and I enjoyed a generously sized focaccia. Then it was back to the car…Shelly drove us to the intriguing town of Grammichele…we stopped to wander around the hexagonal town square, the result of a revolutionary town planning project to re-build after the devastating 1693 earthquake. There's a statue of the main man at one edge of the piazza. 

We drove on to Palazzolo Acreide, to the east, another hilltown. Nicolette met us outside the accommodation, and directed Shelly to a parking space. Got ourselves rested, then wandered up to the town square for a drink. Aki followed a bit later...and managed to get herself lost in the back streets somehow. I went back to look for her, but could see no sign of her...when I got back to the street cafe, she was of course sat with the girls having a drink! We went in search of dinner...ended up at a nice little restaurant set in an old high-ceilinged vault. 

Then it was back to the B'nB for a shower and bed. Sleep was delayed, however, by some very noisy fellow guests, laughing and yelping downstairs, before they mounted the stairs and got out on the rooftop terrace above us! They didn't shut up until around midnight!

Tuesday 8th September 2026

Alarm at 0730. Hauled ourselves out of bed and made tea. Packed and abluted. Met Kim and Shelly downstairs struggling with the key box. Horatio had turned up on time with his taxi. We stopped briefly around the corner so Aki could pick up some car sickness tablets. Horatio dropped us at the airport and we found the car hire place…Shelly and I signed up as drivers. Picked up our car…a Skoda Kamiq masquerading as a small coupe but with just enough luggage space in the boot. Shelly drove us to our first pit stop…we found the local cafe in a small, nondescript village off the road to Agrigento. Enjoyed coffee and croissants, then headed for Cammarata. 

Shelly loves driving off piste…so we took the long way round, via rocky single track byways across the top of a mountain…she had put a trattoria into the satnav…unbelievably, there it suddenly was…Felici’s. And very popular it was too…there must have been 200 odd diners in there, all having driven up from the opposite direction on the narrow tarmacadamed road from the town. 

We were ushered to a table and presented with a prix fixe menu at €30 a head. I’ve never seen so much food! Prosciutto, ham, sausage, ricotta, tripe, black beans…and that was just the first course! Then came cannelloni, risotto, pasta shapes in tomato sauce, followed by grilled meats, and finally a large bowl of sundry fruits!!! We got nowhere near finishing each course…and when we enquired where the waste went, were told by our jolly hostess that it went to feed the pigs!!! 

We somehow managed to waddle to the car, and set off for Enna via the Agrigento road. We swapped drivers in a lay-by north of Agrigento, and I drove us the rest of the way into Enna. I stuck to the speed limits…which meant I was consistently overtaken by cars, vans, lorries and motorbikes! No one seems to take any notice of road signage in this country! 

Satnav guided me through town, a hilltop conurbation...and we managed to get parked outside the Hotel Sicilia to the east of the town centre. None of us were remotely hungry after over overwhelming lunch...we took a walk to the castle on the eastern flank of the town. The views across the countryside to north, east, and south, were breathtaking. We watched the sun set over the buildings to the west, then wandered down to one of the piazzas for a drink before retiring for the night...

Monday 7th September 2026

Reasonable night’s sleep. Got up and made tea before abluting. Walked into the city centre to meet up with Shelly and Kim for coffee at 0930. Half the cafes were closed. Walked across town, zigzagging our way to the Norman Palace near the west gate, where we met up with Anya outside the ticket office. Tony and Judy, Kim’s and Shelly's chums from north London, were in the queue. 

We filed in, glad to get the benefit of some air conditioning! Shelly and Judy were forced to wear the in house robes to cover shoulders before entering the Palatine Chapel. Judy managed to rip hers just getting into it. We queued for the Palatine Chapel…commissioned in the mid 12th Century by the Norman ruler, Roger II…the multicoloured mosaic walls, with lots of gold leaf, were stunning, beneath an intricate honeycomb ceiling. Managed an ice-cream break in the cafe, courtesy of the very generous Tony, before meandering through the Royal Apartments. Parts of that wing are evidently used by local government for meetings and assemblies. 

Ventured back out into the midday sun, Tony and Judy having taken their leave to head for Messina. Found a nice little Sicilian restaurant for lunch...I had stuffed rolled sardines. Ambled across the square to take a look inside the cathedral. It's huge, and include the sarcophagi of Roger II himself, and a couple of family members. There's also a magnificent chapel dedicated to Santa Rosalia, the patron saint of the city...lots of intricate silverware; somewhere inside of which there's a bit of her foot or something. 

Guided the girls back to the accommodation via La Capo, which was evidently winding down. Had a rest before heading out for dinner. Had arranged to meet Shelly in Garibaldi Gardens, as someone had mentioned there were plenty of eateries in square around the garden. Zigzagged our way across town once more, taking in Lampedusa's birthplace, now a block of well-heeled apartments. Bumped into Shelly come back the other way...she hadn't been very impressed with the eateries near the square. Aki and I decided to soldier on to take a look at the magnificent banyan trees in the Gardens, and take a peek at the final residence of Lampedusa...not much to see...another big, dark stuccoed block near the sea. 

Walked back toward town and hooked up with Shelly, Kim, and Anja at a very nice little restaurant in a quiet piazza. Still too full from Sunday's jaunt to contemplate ending the meal with a tiramisu! Zigzagged our way back to our rooms, suitably exhausted!

Sunday 6th September 2026

Alarm at 0830. Got up and made tea, though it took me a few minutes to get the kettle plugged in, the consent being positioned behind a desk. Aki on her way in to Palermo with George from No.127…they are heading to a museum re-designed by Scarpa. Showered. Walked out into the quiet Sunday morning streets…I was greeted with a friendly boungiorno by a couple of elderly folks outside a church…then realised they were begging! 

Made my way to the square in front of the impressive Teatro Massimo and found a table in a little cafe…ordered a latte. Joined the food tour gang outside the theatre…about 12 of us were led off by our guide, Alessandra. She walked around the back of the theatre to the famous Le Capo street market. Another narrow street packed with stalls…it was rammed. She pulled up at a chum’s stall…

he sold us all frozen cappuccinos…very refreshing, though I managed to spill some of mine down my new t-shirt! Had the occasional chat with some of my fellow travellers…one of whom was so allergic to dairy that she couldn’t eat anything on the food tour…her husband enjoyed double portions! I was also approached by one of the Canadian chaps, he having clocked that I was from North London…he turned out to be a Gooner!!! 

We wended our way down the long street, stopping at one eatery to enjoy some deep fried Sicilian street food specialities. Came out at the southern end of the street into the Piazza Duomo, which afforded a look at the cathedral…a weird hotch-potch of different styles as the building took shape over the course of some seven centuries…Norman, Arabic, Baroque. We parked up in the street facing the entrance and were treated to arancini…they were huge! 

Mine was stuffed with sausage and mozzarella. By now we were all struggling to eat our portions, but Alessandra had one more stop planned…cannoli at Santa Caterina’s old monastery near the fontana. We stuffed our faces in the busy courtyard, said our farewells, and went our separate ways. Managed to find Aki and George enjoying lunch in a secluded piazza not too far east of where I’d ended my food tour. Said our farewells to George from No.127, who was flying back to London this evening. Waited in vain for an Uber to show up. Managed to flag down a taxi to drive us to the accommodation…got Aki installed. Rested up for a bit…very warm out there. As we ventured back out to meet Anya, another rowing mate, for dinner, we found Kim and Shelly at the bottom of the marble stairs, struggling with their key box. 

Helped them get into their two bed unit, next door to ours, then walked Aki into the city centre. Stopped for a beer on the main drag. Met up with Anya at the Focaccia where we had had lunch with George…though she was a bit late, having gone to the wrong Piazza San Francesco! Food was OK…we were served by a jolly waitress who recognised us from lunchtime. Walked back up through the crowds having arranged to meet Anya tomorrow at the Norman Palazzo…

Saturday 5th September 2026

 

Alarm at 0800. Aki texted to say she wasn’t rowing today due to feeling seasick yesterday. I watered the plants, porridged, and put some rubbish out before heading for City Airport…got there via DLR…in good time. Got through security in double quick time. Sat with a coffee and a chicken and ham toastie. Boarded my Air Italia flight on time...uneventful journey, landing in Milan on schedule. 

Got through the Entry/Exit System in good time...I'd been a bit worried about getting held up there, and potentially missing my connection to Palermo...it was slow, but I got through with plenty of time to spare. My flight to Palermo was, however, delayed. Killed time with an early evening meal...a slice of crispy Italian pizza and a gelato. The flight to Palermo took off about 40 minutes late, and landed around an hour behind schedule. It meant I wouldn't get to my accommodation until around 2100. Managed to catch the coach into the city...took about 40 minutes. Got off outside the Teatro Garibaldi, and walked across the piazza...the place was buzzing. Lots of families sauntering about. Made my way to the accommodation. Couldn't get enough of a signal to get a message to the host, who had messaged me earlier to say he would open the front door remotely. 

Eventually got through to him, and got in to the property...an old two-storey unit with a marbled staircase. The room, however, was small, and the balcony looked out on to an interior 'courtyard', which had the feel of a large service duct...the view was of a whitewashed wall some 3m opposite! Got myself sorted, and ventured out in search of a bedtime snack...found a little eatery a block away, and ordered a mini pizza bun, and some deep fried cheese! Too hot and sticky to contemplate going to bed, so took a walk down the main drag...a narrow street which was filled with milling crowds, hawkers, eateries, and gelateria. Couldn't believe that so many people were eating at 11 o'clock at night! Walked as far as the Quattro Canti, and then turned back. Shower and bed...

Friday 4th September 2026

Made my way up to Katherine's at No.127, with the guitar strings. I popped in at the GP to return the blood pressure monitor on the way, and picked up a coffee from Big Jo's. Katherine's guitar is in fairly good nick, though the strings are in need of replacing. The machine heads are a bit too battered, notably the one I was using to add the D string...needless to say. the string snapped! So that was a waste of time!!! I suggested she take the instrument to a luthier to get it properly serviced. Lunched at home in a bid to empty the fridge before I head to Sicily tomorrow. Aki FaceTimed from her sick bed...she didn't row today! I think they've found the ocean-going conditions way too challenging! Pretty much finished my packing and opted for an early night...

Thursday 3rd September 2026

Woke around 0700. Dozed until 0800ish, then brought a mug of tea back to bed and did a little doom-scrolling. Got up to make breakfast. Watered the plants. Made some almond and banana cookies. Did most of my packing...finish off on Saturday morning. Ventured into town. Picked up a guitar string for Katherine in Denmark Street. Had a wander about before finding some lunch at Foyles cafe. Bought a t-shirt in Uniqlo, intended for holiday wear. Then made my way to Coal Drops Yard to seek out a red jacket I'd spotted online at YMC...tried it on, but the sleeves were too long...bought a bright green fleece instead...groovy! Bought a pair of linen casual trousers to take to Italy, then made for home via Waitrose.