Tuesday 29th September 2026

Woke around 0700 with back pain, so got up and re-arranged the pillows so I could sit up for a bit. Managed to nod back off again for awhile. Got up and made tea, which I brought back to bed, with a bowl of porridge. Read for a while. Aki popped out to tai chi. I got up and took my constitutional...walked to Highbury Fields. Enjoyed a coffee at Maison Bleu, then headed for Waitrose. Aki home by the time I got back...I put a light lunch together. Accessed Lynne's flat...she's on her way back from Penzance. Cut away some wisteria and passion flower which has all gone a bit AWOL at the front of the building. Did a little work at the laptop ahead of inspections later in the week. Tidied up the cuttings in the front garden. Ambled round to No.7 for dinner chez Brett. Jane and Carlos from No.36, Lynne from upstairs, Margaret from No.5, and Kathleen and Andrew from No.49, also in attendance. Pleasant evening sat out in Brett's arbour. She'd cooked up a feast of Ottolenghi inspired dishes...I particularly enjoyed the baked rice with confit tomatoes and garlic, which paired beautifully with the Moroccan chicken stew. The almond orange cake for afters was great, too. Brett is preparing to return to Australia in a couple of weeks, so won't be around for Xmas. It was gone midnight by the time I got to bed...

Monday 28th September 2026

Took a couple of hours to nod off, for some reason. So didn't feel very refreshed by the time I woke around 0900. Aki brought me tea in bed. Read for a bit. Got up and porridged. Phoned High View and alerted Jim to the fact that the NBS passbook would be delivered today...hopefully someone hears the doorbell! Read Act II of the panto script...underwhelming, I'm afraid. Aki put an early lunch together before we headed into town to see a film at the Garden Cinema...Czech classic, "Marketa Lazarova". Had a little trouble seeing the subtitles due to the size of the head of the bloke on the row in front of me, but got the gist. What I hadn't realised was that, as well as being voted the greatest Czech film of all time, it was also one of the longest... we both struggled a bit to keep awake over the course of two-and-three-quarter hours! Lots to admire...the strange, surreal sections, the black and white photography...it felt like a 60s era Czech version of "The Seven Samurai", or "The Good, The Bad & The Ugly". Poor old Marketa didn't feature all that much in the narrative. Staggered out of the cinema at 1700 and headed home on the No.91 bus. Got a photo from Royal Mail that showed the NBS passbook being delivered to mum at 12 High View...got a bit worried that she might have then put it somewhere, and forgotten where she put it! Got an email from dad, though, saying it had been received. Aki cooked a stir fry, and used up the last of the pork fillet. Watched "28Up" followed by The Ten. Bath and bed.

Sunday 27th September 2026

Fitful night's sleep, for some reason...back giving me a bit of gip, so got up around 0730. Got back into bed with a mug of tea, and read for half-an-hour. Got up and readied myself for guitar class. Aki up by the time I left for Camden Town. Picked up a coffee at Pret on Camden High Road, and read a little Dickens before ambling round the corner to Cecil Sharp House. One or two extra people this week...bloke who sat next to me was good. He let me share his music stand. It was all a bit slow going again today, given the fact that some people are absolute beginners, but I'm enjoying learning a new tune. Half-a-dozen of us sat about in the cafe afterward, and I joined the WhatsApp Group. Headed home to put the chicken in the oven. Aki back from rowing club in time for Sunday roast. I then took a couple of buses to Stoke Newington. George Savona, curating the Poetry Evening, wanted to hear everyone deliver their material. Had to wait my turn, as he was seeing people one-by-one. Had a couple of hours to kill before the show, so wandered up Church Street...bought a chicken salad pot from Whole Foods and went back to the theatre to eat it. Bumped into Sorrel and some of the panto gang, who were having their first read-through this afternoon...they haven't cast a Daddy Bear, so said I'd consider it, and took a copy of the script to read. It's not great...the first half feels very patchy. Daddy Bear doesn't look too exacting, though. See what Aki thinks! Aki turned up around 1840, and took her seat in the studio with Kathleen from No.49. I opened the evening with a delivery of Poem For Live8. Some very enjoyable contributors over the course of the evening...I especially enjoyed renditions of Philip Larkin, John Betjemen, and a piece from Webster's "Duchess of Malfi". I ended the second half with "Now Westlin' Winds"...I dried on the opening line! But got through it, eventually!!! We gave Kathleen a lift home to Sussex Way. Showered and bed...

Saturday 26th September 2026

Slow start this morning. Got up and made tea before porridging. Kath had left a text message last night saying that the boiler at 12 High View had packed up, and they needed the NBS passbook ASAP. I popped over to the Post Office and sent it by Special Delivery...hopefully it'll get there in one piece by Monday lunch time. Also decided to send Kath the NBS Power of Attorney forms so that she could get herself sorted once and for all. Will post them out on Monday. I wandered over to Waitrose after lunch to buy a chicken for tomorrow's roast. Headed for the Harringay Ladder late afternoon...couldn't get on a No.29 bus, as it was packed, so hopped on a bus to Finsbury Park and caught the overground to Hornsey. The train was rammed...must be a gig on at Ally Pally or something! Walked Aki down the New River, which brought us out at the top of Beresford Road. Kearsey and Kieron hosted another dinner party. Shelly, our chauffeur from Sicily, turned up, amongst others. We repaired to the back garden after gnocchi, and ice cream doused in Bourbon! Sat about chatting, though I found myself next to Dee, who is very bright, but is ADHD and then some!!! It gets a bit wearing after a while. Made our escape around 2100, and walked down to the bus stop on Green Lanes to catch a No.29 bus home. 

Friday 25th September 2026

Aki up early to ready herself for rowing club. By the time I got up to make tea, she had cycled off. Brought porridge back to bed with me and read some "Dagga". Katrina texted to say her copy had turned up in the post! I did a little gardening...Margaret turned out to be in her back garden, and joined in with a bit of pruning of the jasmine, so I could get through the gate between our two properties. Did a little out front, too. Aki back for lunch...put together a sardine salad with poached eggs. Headed into town...visited the Photographer's Gallery, and their Japanese Women Photographers 1950-Now exhibition. Some of the more abstract stuff was worth a look, but otherwise nothing much to get excited about. Particularly liked the photo of a hat made out of fish. Then headed for Earlsfield, via Vauxhall...Tami and Franco threw a welcome dinner for Midori and Dan, old chums who have moved into the flat they rent out attached to their house. Sat about in the garden chatting and enjoying some nibbles, then moved inside for a sumptuous Japanese feast that Tami, Midori, and Aki cooked up in the kitchen...it was very impressive...and very tasty! Got home around 2300. Bumped into Sush outside, unloading his van...he and Rebecca are due to fly out to Cyprus for ten days tomorrow, so he didn't want to leave any valuable tools in the van. Managed to get him to tell me where the fusebox for the external consent is, so the roofer can detail around it properly. Had to listen to him burbling on for half-an-hour though before I was able to extricate the information! Aki was in bed by the time I got in...

Thursday 24th September 2026

Woke around 0900. Got up and brought tea back to bed with me, but was interrupted by a call from Matthew at work...inspections needed out Chelmsford way in the coming week. Well, I badly need the cash! Finished Clare Tomalin's biography of Dickens...some interesting stuff in her postscript, detailing his daughter Katey's efforts to right the record in respect of how badly Dickens treated his wife, her mother. She describes him as "a wicked", but wonderful, man! Did a little prep work at the laptop before lunch. Put a ham and egg salad lunch together. Did some mandatory Savills compliance training online. Wandered over to Waitrose to buy some pork fillet for tonight's dinner, taking a long circular walk down to Highbury Fields and back along the way. Aki cooked a pork stir fry with rice noodles for dinner. Watched three episodes of "Widow's Bay" before bath and bed...

Wednesday 23rd September 2026

Woke around 0900. Got up and brought tea back to bed...read my Dickens biography for a bit before rising to porridge. Carried on reading until lunchtime. Message from RoofPro saying they were cancelling tomorrow's work, as they were struggling to put a team together. Not amused! Chicken salad for lunch. Ventured out for an afternoon walk...made our way across to Parliament Hill Fields. Sat on a bench for a bit watching the world go by, then walked down to Gospel Oak station to catch a train back to Upper Holloway. Walked back down the Holloway Road, popping in to Sainsburys on the way. Bumped into Jane outside No.36...she was carrying a bunch of flowers ahead of Carlos's birthday celebrations tomorrow. Aki warmed up the last of the tandoori chicken, which we ate with rice and lentils. Watched "Widow's Bay"...it went back in time to 1702 so no Matthew Rhys in this episode...it's not so funny without him! Bath and bed...

Tuesday 22nd September 2026

Woke around 0400. Managed to nod back off fairly readily. It was gone 0900 when I next came to. Aki still dozing. I got up and made myself tea, and climbed back into bed with Clare Tomalin, or rather, her Dickens biography. Got up and porridged. Sat about reading until lunchtime ...warmed up some lentil soup I'd rescued from the freezer. Tastier than I recalled. Walked over to Tesco at Stroud Green to get some supplies. Cooked a pasta alle Norma for dinner, with one of Aki's homegrown aubergines. Went down well. Watched "Till The Stars Come Down" on the National Theatre At Home streaming device. The Tower are mounting a production of it next spring, and Kathleen from No.49 had seen the National production, and claimed it was hilarious, so it piqued my interest. But the two older men haven't got much to say, though one of them amusingly recreates a Tarzan competition he entered as a youth, but nothing in it for me...a lot of women shouting at each other most of the time. 

Monday 21st September 2026

Woke around 0600. Got up and re-arranged my pillows, and got back into bed...managed to doze until around 0900. Got up and made tea. Aki still feeling a bit rough. I spent all morning in bed reading "Hard-Boiled", determined to get the Murakami finished so that I could drop it off at the Library this afternoon. Finished just in time for lunch. It was a great read...very imaginative...looking forward to seeing the stage adaptation next month. Warmed up Aki's chicken broth for lunch. Walked down to Islington Council Offices on Upper Street, popping the book in at the Central Library on the way. Stopped for a decaf at Coffee Republic...nothing to write home about. I went to LBI enquire as to the whereabouts of half-a-dozen All-Day parking permits I'd ordered three weeks ago...I was given a number, 68, and waited my turn. I raised an eyebrow when, after nearly an hour waiting, number 69 was called! I made a polite protestation and got seen...it seems they can't even get the queue organised with any degree of competence! Suffice to say, my wait was a complete waste of time...nobody around to help in the Parking Department...the guy dealing with me managed to get hold of someone working from home, who was eventually able to track my payment down...but I was sent away empty handed, and told to fill in an Indemnity Form stating it was true that the effing things hadn't turned up in my letterbox. Caught a bus back to Holloway. Popped in to Waitrose to get some odds and ends, then walked home. Aki cooked up the M&S tandoori chicken for dinner, with rice and vegetables. I ventured out...headed for Stoke Newington via two buses, to attend the Tower Theatre AGM. Got there about half-an-hour early...rather than stand about talking nonsense to all and sundry, I popped round to the gelato shop on Church Street for my pudding! Not quite up to Sicilian standards, but went down well...it was rather warmer out than I'd anticipated. The theatre was about half full...which meant only about 50 people had turned up, which I thought was a rather poor turnout. Amanda announced that she would be standing down as AD in December, and Dom, who had played the Dame in last year's panto, would be stepping into the breach! All seemed to be on track financially, and audiences had been well up across the year, most notably for the panto, which Sorrel and Dom are leading again this year. 

Saturday 19th September 2026

Woke around 0700. Got up and made tea...sat up in bed and drank it, then managed to doze off for a bit. Aki reckons she's coming down with my cold...sore throat, runny nose. Aki got up to see if the wi-fi had been connected by Vodafone...router still flashing red, though. She got on the phone to Vodafone while I ventured out to buy bread...a lot of rubbish in the street this morning...it's like living in a landfill site! Bumped into Dave from No.17...he said they are thinking of moving, maybe in a couple of years time, as they are fed up with the drug addicts and the rest of it. Posted a card to Alicia and James apologising for not making their wedding today...still too ill to make a trip to Buckingham. Wandered up to Big Jo to buy a loaf, and walked slowly home. Aki still on the phone when I got in...speaking to a Vodafone agent...in Egypt! Anyroad, she eventually got us back on line after 18 hours delay. Lunched on the remains of the sausage ragu...mixed with peas, and a hunk of fresh sourdough. Aki had a boiled egg and some salad. I popped out to Waitrose and bought some odds and ends. Spotted the druggies at the top end of Annette Road...took evasive action. Wandered slowly home. Aki made some chicken and vegetable soup for dinner...a bit of soul food to make her feel better. Very tasty. Watched a bit of telly...disappointed to experience the loss of our new internet connection every 30 minutes or so! Bath and bed...

Friday 18th September 2026

Hacking cough subsided during the night, but flared up again around 0400! My head and my diaphragm ache!!! Got up around 0800. Called Rebecca next door to thank her for moving the homeless man on who'd parked himself on our doorstep last week. Alerted her to the fact that RoofPro had pencilled in works for next Thursday. Could hear banging outside and discovered a team of two installing a junction box in the pavement ahead of the fibreoptic installation this afternoon. The OpenReach technician turned up at 1300...he had to run the cable from the new junction box, through the garden wall, and then along the bottom rung of the old wrought iron fence with No.5...not terribly convincing! He had to fight his way through the rose bush, and then make a hole in the external wall near the front door to align the fibreoptic with the existing router. We gave him a hand, and took measurements to ensure he didn't drill through the gas main! He left about 1630 with the router in 'connecting' mode. He reckoned it might take a couple of hours to kick in. Aki baked trout for dinner. Watched a bit of telly. Restricted by the fact that the wi-fi still wasn't up and running. A message from Vodafone suggested it wouldn't be activated until midnight! Early bath and bed...

Thursday 17th September 2026

Disturbed night's sleep for both of us due to my hacking cough! Got up at 0700, then sat up in bed and dozed for a couple of hours. Grey, damp looking day! We are obviously back in Holloway!!! Porridged. Tried to make a dent in my Blog...need to write up the entire 10 days, and sort out some photos...going to keep me busy for a couple of weeks. Aki put some washing in, then cycled off to the shops to buy some odds and ends for lunch. Bumped into Lynne in the front garden...she had returned, in agony, from Brazil about 10 days early, as she had had an accident and fallen down some steps...she had left her mate to carry on the trip without her. Then she got $100 stolen, and to top things off, left her phone in a Brazilian taxi!!! I offered to do some shopping for her if needed. Kath phoned. She and dad had just returned from a swim...he looked in reasonably good shape. Says his pain has subsided, and he doesn't require the painkilling injections for now. They will review in 12 months. Put some lunch together. Watched a C4 documentary about Tommy Robinson, made by a chap called Matt Shea, who according to Tony McB, lives in Paradise Park. Tony sent a still of Tommy Robinson brandishing a GB News microphone, knocking at Matt's door. The documentary reveals a deeply repulsive character who stands accused of taking his working class supporters for fools...you can say that again!!! Warmed up some defrosted sausage ragu retrieved from the freezer last night. Aki not feeling well, so just cooked herself some rice porridge. We watched 7Up, and 14Up, documentaries following the progress of 20 youngsters from differing backgrounds...they have just screened 70Up, so we've a bit of catching up to do! Bath and early to bed...

Wednesday 16th September 2026

Alarm at 0700. Woke with a bit of a sore throat. Got up, packed and abluted before wolfing down some breakfast. Left Gabriella a €10 tip and said our farewells…she gave us a hug and insisted on a selfie before we headed for the bus stop. Bit of a queue to get on the airport shuttle, but we made it. They even managed to pack about ten more on behind us at the next stop! It made for an uncomfortable journey. 

Etna looked calm in the distance and we spotted a plane in the air…so fingers crossed! Sat about for a bit to let the queues die down before going through security. Our flight was listed on the departures board. Wandered about…watched some planes take off, a further encouraging development. Had to queue for 20 minutes to get through Border Control. But the flight took off on time, and we headed for home. Landed at Luton on schedule, and took the train in to St Pancras, then a bus to Holloway. Got in around 1600. Unpacked and went in search of some supplies. Glad to be home...it was a tiring trip. The sore throat developed into a hacking cough and runny nose. Watched a bit of telly after dinner, and took an early bath...

Tuesday 15th September 2026

We got up and breakfasted, Gabriella on hand once more. I think she's hoping we'll leave her a tip tomorrow! We decided not to head for Etna...had contemplated taking an open top bus tour up the mountain, but it then leaves you to hike around by yourselves...for three hours! We are not really equipped...reports are that it's blinkin' freezing up there! 

So we opted to try and head for Taormina instead. Took a 20 minute hike through the busy streets to the train station...the place was, surprise surprise, chaotic...a great long queue at the ticket office, where only one of half-a-dozen counters was open. We queued at one of the two ticket machines...by the time we got our tickets, we'd missed the train! 

Had an hour-and-a-half to kill before the next one! Went in search of coffee, but ended up back at the station cafe...got a takeaway and sat in some shade on some platform seating. Our train eventually rolled in 5 minutes late. Managed to bag a couple of seats on the right hand side, guaranteeing a view of the Mediterranean…bit perplexed as to why we couldn’t see anything out of the window…sodding Sicilian graffiti artists had sprayed the blinkin’ window! 

Moved down the train a bit. Slow commuter train that stopped at a station every 5 minutes….didn’t get to Taormina Giardini until gone 1330. Exited the station in a downpour…hopped in a taxi to the beach and wandered down onto the sea front for lunch at a little eatery with sea views. Enjoyed a generous salad…Aki went for the octopus. Took the modern cable car up the mountain to the town centre. The place was heaving...strolled along the main drag, which is pedestrianised ...lots of very posh shops. 

Enjoyed an ice cream in the piazza, with views out to sea, and south toward Etna. Sauntered back to the bus station and managed to jump on a coach back to Catania. Walked back to our digs from the bus station. Ventured out for dinner...went to the same restaurant we'd enjoyed on our first night in town. Found ourselves sat next to a young couple from Woking! 

Ambled up to the Jam session at a little bar about 5 minutes walk north of the restaurant...it was a pretty rundown area, and the drains were a bit whiffy. 

The venue had set up a drum kit, guitars, amps and mics on the street outside, and we sat and had a beer...by 2200 the action had yet to get underway...we gave up and headed back to the digs to finish packing in readiness for our attempt to fly home tomorrow, Mount Etna permitting!

Monday 14th September 2026

Woke around 0800…but we weren’t hungry enough very slow to rise. Simple breakfast on the premises…bit of ham, cheese and tomato. Coffee was horrible. We were tended to by Gabriella, who had no English but insisted on showing us her tattoos…she was pretty much covered from head to foot! Abluted then ventured out on an improvised walking tour. 

First stop was Piazza Duomo…the cathedral is impressive. Strange statue of an elephant with a obilisk on its back in the centre of the piazza…the elephant is the emblem of Catania for some reason! Wandered through the fish market…all a bit of an unsightly mess. Made our way to Castello Ursino, then through the back streets up to the Roman amphitheatre...paid to get in and had a look around. It's in pretty good shape for nearly two thousand years old...the under-croft has been carefully excavated, and you can walk all the way around, accessing the vomitories which lead to the seating...it was immaculately planned and constructed, and could hold an audience of 15,000!

Walked on past the palazzo where Bellini, he who composed the opera "Norma", was born and raised, then on up the Via Crociferi past the enormous Benedictine Monastery, and various palaces, to the big open square to the north. Part of the square has been excavated to reveal a portion of the Roman Coliseum that once dwarfed the area, and where Santa Agata was thrown to the lions...she is the patron saint of the city. 

Had lunch at a little osteria. The barmaid spoke good English, and I thought I heard her singing at one point, so asked her whether there were any open mic venues in town...one of the waiters said there would be a jam session at a bar a short walk to the north, on Tuesday night...may make it if we get our packing done. Walked back down the main shopping street, Via Etnea, and back to the digs to rest up before dinner. Met up with Kim, who had spent the day on a guided hike on the slopes of Etna. The climb had been steep, and the terrain problematic, and she had aggravated a knee problem. 

She managed to walk across town, though, to a little trattoria we'd sussed out in the morning. Sat outside on the deck...the food was OK, but nothing to write home about, though Kim plumbed for the donkey steak for her main course! Walked her back to her accommodation and said our farewells...she takes a bus to Scicli tomorrow morning. Shelly texted us to say that Tony and Judy hadn't been able to fly out of Catania this morning due to seismic activity on Mount Etna...they had had to get a train to Palermo, then a flight to Rome, before heading for London! Hope things clear up by Wednesday when we are due to make our getaway!!!

Sunday 13th September 2026

Woke around 0600. Managed to doze back off again eventually. Got up around 0900. Aki feeling better. We weren't hungry enough to consider breakfast, but decided to go in search of caffeine. I guided her down to the kiosk I'd visited yesterday. We were very taken with our coffee cups...Aki had Elvis on hers, I had Ray Charles. Took our empty cups back to the kiosk and sang some Elvis songs to the owner, who was so chuffed with us he gave us an espresso cup with Ray Charles on it...nice souvenir! 

We walked up countless steps...200 odd I should think, to gain views back across the old town perched on the hilltop opposite. We were astonished to be overtaken by a bunch of lycra clad cyclists on a hairpin bend...hard work in this heat! Made our way back to the digs and packed our bags...our hosts had given us the OK to leave our bags in our room until ready to depart after lunch. Wandered into the piazza and on down to the ornamental gardens, where we happened upon Kim and Shelly outside a little chapel, seeking shade beneath the trees. 

We wandered back into the town centre to find lunch, and ended up at the trattoria we'd eaten at last night...the staff recognised us and guided us to a table. More bruschetta and burrata was ordered...making for an excellent lunch! Wended our way back to the digs and picked up our luggage...met the others at the car, and we set off for Catania Airport...we were due to drop off the car, and say farewell to Shelly, who was to fly back to London. The drive was pretty dull, slowed by the fact that the road was down to one lane, though it looked as though a massive road widening project was underway for about the whole trek from Ragusa to Catania...didn't look like the job was likely to finish this side of 2040! 

Had to stop at a petrol station to fill up the tank...took a local to assist us with the weird automated sales system, but got there in the end. Somehow we managed to find the appropriate drop-off point, and successfully handed the keys over...a small dent and scratch above the nearside rear wheel arch were noticed, and would have cost us £700...luckily we'd taken up the offer for random scratch insurance when picking the car up last week!!! 

Walked across to the terminal and said our farewells to Shelly, then piled into a taxi to take us into central Catania...the driver was a bit of a character who kept whistling very loudly, and shouting "Over the top!!!!" at regular intervals. He dropped us outside Kim's accommodation... we walked around the corner to ours, in a five storey block, the ground floor facade of which was covered in graffiti, and let ourselves in. 

We were intercepted by a chap who claimed to be our hostess's brother, who accompanied us up to the rooms...we worried that we were being scammed, but he knew the door codes, and deposited us in our room without mishap. Rested up before hooking up with Kim to go in search of dinner. Made our way about five minutes northward to an interesting eatery mentioned in my mini guide. It was very good. I enjoyed an etna spritz into the bargain. Walked Kim back to her digs, and retired for the night...

Saturday 12th September 2026

Woke around 0400. Couldn’t get back to sleep…the fridge kept making noises, then the street cleaners came round to clean the piazza…twice! Managed to doze for an hour or so before rising…breakfasted in the lounge with half a dozen fellow guests. Finished packing and checked out. Walked our luggage through the streets…not too busy this morning. Hooked up with Shelly and Kim at the car park. Drove out to the Parco Archaelogico to take a gander at the enormous Greek theatre…it had 67 rows of seats carved perfectly out of the hillside, and could seat 15,000!!! Gobsmacking!!! 

Returned to the car as we were suffering in the oppressive heat. Took to the road once more and headed southwest for the hilltop city of Ragusa…rebuilt after being all but destroyed in the 1693 earthquake. Hair raising drive through painfully narrow, steep streets, dodging wandering pedestrians. Shelly got stuck on a very tight 90 degree left turn…you could see the paint marks on the walls from dozens of previous scrapes. Luckily a local jumped out of the car behind and guided her round…there was evidently a technique! 

Parked up and found our hotels…we were literally just around the corner from Kim and Shelly, in a refurbished Baroque villa that had been very tastefully split into rooms. Aki was very impressed. We rested up before venturing out...walked downhill to Via Marketa and met up with Shelly and Kim for lunch at a great little cafe in the old market hall...the units were being slowly refurbished with new uses moving in, including a puppet theatre.

Walked back up to the digs for a rest. Aki feeling under the weather, so left her having a lie down, and walked down to a kiosk I'd noticed on the drive in. Had a gelato and took in the views, before wending my way back uphill. Walked into the main piazza to take a look at the duomo...there was a wedding going on. 

Met up with Shelly and Kim for a drink before finding a trattoria for dinner...luckily we'd booked a table, as the place was evidently very popular. The food was simple, and very tasty...really enjoyed my chicken stew. The bruschetta with burrata was great too. Wandered back to our digs for a badly needed shower and bed...

Friday 11th September 2026

Woke around 0700. Dozed on until 0900. Hauled ourselves out of bed and joined a couple of fellow guests at breakfast…it was much better than we’ve been used to. Cappuccino was good too. The hostess came to introduce herself as Floriana…very bouncy 50 year old with a warm smile…she gave me my passport back and said she loved Reading!…she'd enjoyed the rock festival 1996! 

Aki still feeling under the weather, so I ventured out into the heat alone. Walked along the south-western esplanade…sussed a couple of eateries for later…and ended up at the 12th Century fort that sits on the southern tip of the island. Paid to get in, and had a wander around...I was intrigued to come across a display case with what looked like several ceramic manifestations of fruit...only to discover that they were in fact very early hand grenades. The term grenade comes from the fact that they looked vaguely like pomegranites ("grenita" in Italian). 

Headed back toward the B'nB...Aki rang to ask me to get her some rehydration salts from a pharmacy...tracked a nearby establishment down, only to find it closed for siesta. Enjoyed a nougat gelato in Via Roma on my way back to the B'nB. Rested up for a bit. Aki feeling better, so we headed out to visit the cathedral, of especial interest as it was built on the site of a Greek temple, the columns of which are embedded into the current structure. Also happened upon a chapel to city's patron saint, Santa Lucia, and one of her feet in a glass case! 

Came out of the Duomo to see a couple of large planes going over…headed for the bay where they are picking up water to drop on a wildfire on the mainland! It looks to be on our route to Ragusa tomorrow! Walked to the pharmacy…Aki picked up some saline rehydration sachets, at great expense. Wandered slowly back to the accommodation for a lie down before heading out for dinner. 

The firefighting planes were still looping round to pick up seawater. We sat and had a drink at a little bar and watched them going overhead, then made our way to a seafront restaurant for dinner. Aki not feeling too hungry, so we ate conservatively...my shrimp carpaccio and pasta starter was great. The main courses a bit dull...and a little pricier than last night's venue. 

Walked back to Piazza Archimede...fortunately no busker playing this evening, so got off to a decent night's sleep for a change!