Saturday 29th March 2025

Woke around 0530...which was an improvement on the previous night. Dozed until Aki got up around 0730. Read some "Barnaby Rudge" in bed with a mug of tea. Peanut butter on toast for breakfast. Did some exercises, and some voice work. Prepared bubble and squeak for lunch, with poached eggs. Walked to Stoke Newington in my new trainers. Popped into the gift shop on Church Street to complain about the backpack Aki had bought from them a year ago...one of the shoulder straps had frayed and split apart...bit rubbish! We happened to find the shop owner on duty, and she very graciously gave us our money back, no questions asked. She admired my Keith Haring t-shirt, and told us she’d met him while working in NY back in the day. Had tickets for the matinee of "Shakespeare in Love" at the Tower. It was a sellout. David Taylor had done a fine job, as per usual, though the audience seemed rather subdued…only myself and a woman a couple of rows behind me seemed to be picking up on the clever use of Shakespearean text in Lee Hall’s smart script. There were definitely some ringers in the cast…Will and Viola were making their Tower debuts, but were clearly accomplished actors of a calibre rarely seen in other productions…where does David source his actors? Tried to find a table at Rasa afterwards, but they were booked up…went home and had lemon chicken curry, rice and vegetables instead. Watched some FA Cup football before bath and bed.

Friday 28th March 2025

Despite the unnaturally long day yesterday, I woke around 0330…couldn’t really get back to sleep properly after that. My left knee giving me gip after the 14 hour flight! Aki got up at 0645 to wash her hair…she brought me a large mug of English tea! Breakfasted on iced coffee overnight oats once Kath had gotten up. Aki cycled off to site in Haringey. I drove Kath and her baggage to Kings Cross station’s drop off point, then drove to Waitrose to do a hefty shop. Aki was home when I got back. Finished off the last of the pasta we’d had for dinner last night, smothered in an arrabbiata sauce, for lunch. Read some "Barnaby Rudge". Made dinner...confit duck legs, with roast potatoes, vegetables, and a port wine sauce. Nowt on telly. Very weary. Opted for another early bath and bed...

Thursday 27th March 2025

Alarm at 0630. We forced ourselves out of our beds, made coffee, finished packing, and headed for Shinagawa station. Got to Haneda airport in good time to check in. Got through security, and went in search of breakfast...not much on offer. Made do with an egg and mushroom sandwich, and a coffee. Our flight took off on time at 0950. The 6,000 mile journey took us over the Arctic Circle, and I got some great views of the ice sheets of northern Greenland from my window seat. Watched a couple of movies...an astonishing performance from Joaquin Phoenix in "Joker", and caught "Dune Part II", having seen Part I about four years ago at the Screen on the Green. It passed the time. Finished "Orbital" and started "Barnaby Rudge". 

Landed at Heathrow around 1500 and made our way through Border Control to Baggage Reclaim, then trudged through the endless airport corridors to the Underground station. Hopped on a Piccadilly Line train to Kings Cross, and then took a cab to the front door. We were struck by how dirty the streets of London are, and how scruffy the populace are! Welcome back to Broken Britain. I popped out to Tesco to get some bits and pieces for dinner. Aki and I unpacked, while Kath changed into her jimjams before having a bath. It was a very long and exhausting day...I got to bed at 2200, meaning I’d had a 24 hour waking day, with maybe 30 minutes sleep on the plane.

Wednesday 26th March 2025

Alarm at 0800… got up and made coffee, breakfasting on ham, cheese and toast, before walking down to Shinagawa train station. Caught a Yamanote Line train to Shinjuku then changed for a line out into the northwestern suburbs where we were met by Chiaki and Yoshi, who were to drive us out into the countryside in search of some early flowering cherry blossom. It turned out to be an hour and a half’s drive, and I soon nodded off on the back seat, propped up by Kath and Aki. 

We stopped in Ashigara for lunch at a little farmer’s cafe which specialised in seasonal fare. I had the meat dish, Aki had the vegetarian, and the others had the fish…it was tasty honestly cooking…the beef in ginger was particularly good. We were then driven to a river bank lined with small flowering cherry trees…pretty but not particularly dramatic, though we stumbled upon a little shrine to the founder of FujiFilm who came from this town and a large FujiFilm factory still dominates today…the fellow died in 2000 aged 101. 

We were dropped off at Odawara rail station by our kind hosts, where we bade them farewell and caught a local train direct to Shinagawa. Bought some bits and pieces in the concourse shop to have for dinner back at the flat…our final evening in Japan. Did some packing ahead of the early start tomorrow morning, and plumped for an early night! Woken at midnight by another apnoea episode…went on for maybe 20 seconds, unable to breath, though it always feels terrifyingly longer! It certainly woke the girls up!!!

Tuesday 25th March 2025

Fitful night’s sleep. Got up around 0930 to fix coffee and breakfast. Slow start…Aki not here to chivvy us along. Got going eventually and headed for the Hamarikyu Gardens. Hot work walking from the train station to the gardens…we had intended to end the garden walk at the pier and jump aboard the water bus, but the pier was closed. We paid to get into the gardens, which are built around several ornamental ponds, which are fed from the adjoining estuary, making the ponds tidal. Beautifully laid out and landscaped. 

We walked southward afterward to a new pier head, and bought water bus tickets to Asakusa. Had an hour’s wait so bought some lunch items in a nearby store and sat out in the sun awaiting our boat’s arrival. The river ride took 45 minutes, which we spent above deck watching the city go by, eventually disembarking at Asakusa, where we made for the temple Sensoji…

...a C7th edifice with adjacent pagoda, and a renowned row of some 100 little Edo era shops which line the route from the famous Kaminarimon Gate and it’s giant paper lantern, to the temple at the northern end. The place was heaving! We pushed and shuffled our way down it and sought temporary refuge in the tourist information centre, climbing to the 8th floor viewing platform. Decided to cut our losses and head for Meguro to meet up with Aki and Izumi…got a Gonzales line subway train to Kansa, then made our way to the Yamanote Line…met Aki outside Meguro station. Izumi was in the nearby Tully’s Coffee house and we repaired thence for a cold drink. 

From there we walked to our dinner venue, a little tonkatsu joint, and wedged ourselves onto a small table for four…the food was good, the pork cutlets being very tender. Flagged down a cab on the main drag to despatch us to the Gigabar, where we hooked up with Aki’s cousins Mariko and Takako, and one of her old Kajima workmates. 

Aside from one other gentleman, who got up to play guitar with the house band, we were the only ones in there this evening. I persuaded Mariko to accompany me and the band for a rendition of Heart of Gold, followed by Country Honk…bit messy, but good fun.

Izumi insisted I get up and do another later, so I obliged with a rendition of Jumpin’ Jack Flash, by which time my voice was failing! Parted company with our friends outside the club and hailed a cab back to Shinagawa…fell into bed exhausted!

Monday 24th March 2025

Woke around 0845. Aki got up to make coffee. I put some breakfast together…ham, egg, cheese and toast that we’d garnered from the 7-Eleven last night. Ventured out, taking a Yamanote line train to Ebisu…Kath and Aki wanted to pick up the glasses they’d had made up a couple of weeks ago. Lunched in a great little ramen joint…very modern set up with tablets at table to order your food from…good value and very tasty. 

Took the Yamanote line to Tokyo station and walked to a little shop renowned for its wrapping paper, amongst other things. The shop is now housed in a small modern 2-storey build with interesting cladding. Bought some stationery. Parted company with Aki, who is heading across town for a catchup with a couple of chums from her youth. Kath and I wandered around the Takashimaya department store, Tokyo branch, a magnificent 1920s edifice near Tokyo station.

There’s an art gallery on the 6th floor…but it was very small, so we failed to kill much time. Repaired to a bar for a beer, then headed back to Shinagawa for dinner at a rather good Italian restaurant…Kath had a salmon salad, while I went for the lasagna. Got back to the accommodation in good time…read some ‘Orbital’ before bed…

Sunday 23rd March 2025

Fitful night’s sleep on the armoured car bonnet…I’m actually beginning to look forward to the relative comfort of 14 hours in an airplane seat! Breakfasted on coffee, and some pastries we’d bought yesterday. Aki departed to traipse across Greater Tokyo to pick up her suitcase from Noburu’s flat. Kath and I caught a Yamanote line train to Shinjuku, and walked round to the famous Gyoen park and gardens, only to find you needed a reservation to get in. Walked to the Takashimaya Building. 

Went up to the 13th floor viewing platform…lots of little eateries up there but queues at every one…found a Starbucks in the block next door and had mango smoothies…they were so cold they made your face ache! Wandered back into the store and bought some trainers at the Camper shop, then met up with Aki in Tokyo Hands, a shop that seems to sell everything under the sun. 

Aki bought a kitchen knife amongst a myriad of other things. Walked to meet Aki’s friend Miho at a local restaurant…bit posher than we are used to…Miho has good taste, and very generously bought us all dinner! I enjoyed some wagyu beef. Had a night cap in a tiny bar before walking to Shinjuku station and riding the Yamanote Line back to Shinagawa.

Saturday 22nd March 2025

Aki up with the lark to ready herself for rowing. Kath and I rose around 0830. Rather uncomfortable night…Kath kept falling down the gap in her sofa bed. My mattress is akin to the bonnet of an armoured vehicle! Just five nights to go!!! Walked across town to find breakfast…the cafes in Shimahara station were packed with luggage wielding tourists, so we ventured out the other side of the station complex and found a cafe that did egg and cheese danish pastries in a huge office complex. 

Walked on eastward to the river…there’s a boarding dock there but no information as to sailings…not in English at any rate. Caught a KK line train to Kamata…we were following the map Aki had left us in order to find the fabric shop Kath wanted to visit…unbeknownst to us there are two Kamata stations, and we were at the wrong one. Had to walk across Ota City to find the correct station and get our bearings…it was hot work in the spring sunshine. 

Got there eventually and Kath bought about £50 worth of material, some destined for her Hexham sewing buddy. Got a train back to Shinagawa and dumped the purchases at the flat, and awaited Aki’s return. She’d had a good time on the river but that it was choppy and hard work. 

We ventured out once more mid afternoon, taking a stroll through the neighbourhood. Jumped on a No.96 bus to Azabujuban…a pleasant district to the west of the city centre. Aki had designed the interior of a restaurant here back in the 80s, but Nanao, the chef, had had to close it recently due to redevelopment plans…however, her husband ran a tiny bar around the corner, and as luck would have it he was just opening up…

 

...he recognised Aki and ushered us in for a quiet drink…he is 85, runs the bar by himself (closes up at midnight these days!), smokes 40 cigarettes and downs half a bottle of whisky a day!!! We had a chat for half an hour then went in search of dinner. Very nice little Japanese restaurant in the vicinity…got a bit giddy on the sake. Caught a No.96 bus back to Shibagawa…Kath was in bed by 2030…

Friday 21st March 2025

Alarm at 0800. Descended to the shopping centre next door for ham and eggs for breakfast, finished packing, and checked out. Caught the bus to Hiroshima Airport, about an hour’s ride. Had a couple of hours to kill before our 1405 flight to Tokyo. Had a coffee before going through security. 

Sandwich lunch waiting at the Gate. Landed at Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport around 1530, then took a subway train to Shinagawa. Had to lug our baggage up a rather steep hill to the residential block where our accommodation is located. Tiny little flat, with a narrow double bed for me and Aki, and the sofa bed for Kath. Wasn’t quite what we were expecting, but we’ll have to put up with it for six nights! Got hooked up to the wi-fi and checked the BBC News website, to discover that Heathrow Airport has been closed due to a power outage! Hope they get things back up and running before we fly home next Thursday!!! 

Ventured out in search of dinner. We are evidently residing in a bit of an epicurean desert…ended up in a cheap Italian, half full of rather scruffy looking Aussies. Won’t be going there again! Walked back to the digs via a very very busy 7-Eleven where we picked up some coffee and milk for the morning…Aki had an early night as she plans to go rowing tomorrow morning. I stayed up a while doom-scrolling and reading before shower and bed…

Thursday 20th March 2025

Woke around 0830…bad hernia repair giving me right hip this morning. Aki and Kath descended to ground zero to buy breakfast from the bakery…ate in our room. Walked to the ferry terminal near the A-Bomb Dome and climbed aboard for the trip down the Otawaga River, and out into the Bay of Hiroshima…we were headed for Miyajima. 

The island was very busy with both human beings, and sika deer. Aki and Kath probably picked up a couple of ticks! We followed the crowd along the seafront to the famous shrine, set in the shallows. Climbed steps to a large timbered temple, then made our way back to the ferry terminal. 

Quick 15 minute ride on the car ferry to Miyajimaguchi, back on the mainland, several kilometres southwest of the city. Jumped on another train to Kuba, where we got a taxi to the stunning Simose Art Museum, set on the coast in an area of heavy industry. 

The reception area is dominated by what look like two magnificent manmade trees, and a mirrored poured resin floor. We enjoyed coffee and cheesecake before paying to get into the exhibition rooms. Aki spotted a camera crew out on the lawn, where they were interviewing the architect himself! She rushed out to get a photo. 

The exhibits are largely housed in six coloured boxes set in an ornamental lake, with large automatic sliding doors to the connecting corridors…it was a bit like walking through the Starship Enterprise. We found our way up to a roof garden, offering extensive views out into the Seto Sea, and a beautifully arranged garden with ponds and decking. 

Jumped on the free shuttle bus to Otsake station and caught a train back toward Hiroshima. Ended the journey with a tram ride back toward our hotel…it was very busy, it being the start of rush hour. Aki was keen to eat some oysters, farmed in their thousands out in the bay…we had seen innumerable oyster beds out at sea.  So we found a little okonomiyaki joint in the block next door to our hotel, and enjoyed fried scallops and oysters with a beer before returning to our rooms. 

Walked across town for dinner at a tonkatsu place, but couldn’t find it…ended up in a little chikatsu joint instead…run by a small but very friendly team who were evidently Anglophiles…nice people!

Wednesday 19th March 2025

Woke around 0800. Good night’s sleep…awoke to news from the West that Jim and Emma are planning to wed next February! I suggested Dan Burn be best man…Jim replied that he’d already lined up Kevin Keegan. Abandoned planned boat ride today, as temperatures are due to rise tomorrow so will go then. Slow day today. Walked out onto the main drag in search of breakfast, and into a cold, howling wind. Queued at a modern little bakery that had opened a week or so ago. Sat at the counter and enjoyed fresh chocolate croissants and coffee. Did a little shopping at Uniqlo…Kath bought more layers…she’ll be mistaken in the street for a sumo wrestler! Returned to the hotel for a lie down. 

Ventured back out into the burgeoning sunshine, this time headed for the A-Bomb Dome, and surrounding gardens. Crossed the river into the Memorial Park and headed for the museum. Walked past a clock tower that chimes at 0815 every morning, and then past the eternal flame and the cenotaph. Coffee and cake in a nearby cafe, and the queued to get into the Museum. 

No holds barred…graphic photos of the dead and injured, pieces of dead body, blood stained clothing…the folks shuffling round immediately behind me were crying! Powerful stuff…we staggered back out into the park and walked back to the hotel for a stiff drink in the rooftop bar. Ate at a local Chinese restaurant…very tasty. Early bath and bed…

Tuesday 18th March 2025

Woke around 0815. Breakfasted on coffee and ham, egg and cheese rolls that we’d purchased yesterday. Packed up and checked out. Flagged down a taxi to Kyoto station. Had a few hours to kill before our train to Hiroshima…decided to store our bags in lockers…took about 15 minutes to work out how to do it! Got there in the end. 

Walked up to the Higashi Hongan-ji Temple and mooched about the Founders Hall, apparently one of the largest timber structures in the world. The whole complex had been meticulously rebuilt in the late 19thC after the original buildings were destroyed in a fire. Walked across town to the National Museum. 

There was an exhibition on Anui culture…an Inuit people who occupied Hokkaido, Sakhalin, and islands to the south-west of Alaska…we were encouraged to touch the Anui’s tools, which hailed from the Kinki region! We also wandered about the architecturally inspiring new wing of the museum, before lunching in the cafe. Kath struggling to walk, so we flagged down a cab back to the station and spent another 15 minutes working out how to retrieve our baggage! Took the 1502 Bullet train to Hiroshima. 

Arrived at 1642 and took a cab to our hotel, a 35-storey meg-hotel that looked akin to a cruise ship. Our rooms were on the 22nd floor, affording fabulous views southward toward the sea and nearby islands. We can see the Atomic Bomb Dome from our rooms…the remains of the only building left standing after the first atomic bomb detained 600 metres above it 80 years ago. It’s breathtaking to think that the urban sprawl of this huge, modern city all dates after that event! 

We ventured out to find food around 1900…very cold outside. Snow forecast for tomorrow! Walked through a long arcade to an area of the city renowned for it’s okonomiyaki, a noodle pancake…had to queue for a seat at a little okonomiyaki joint, and then watched in fascination as the chef built these edifices before our eyes. He worked like a Trojan…but with a smile on his face. Don’t think Kath and I realised how long the process would take…it was 2100 by the time we ate! For all the myriad ingredients that we saw going in to it, the end result was disappointingly bland. We ate up and waved farewell, and hightailed it back to the hotel for bath and bed…