Monday 7th September 2026

Reasonable night’s sleep. Got up and made tea before abluting. Walked into the city centre to meet up with Shelly and Kim for coffee at 0930. Half the cafes were closed. Walked across town, zigzagging our way to the Norman Palace near the west gate, where we met up with Anya outside the ticket office. Tony and Judy, Kim’s and Shelly's chums from north London, were in the queue. 

We filed in, glad to get the benefit of some air conditioning! Shelly and Judy were forced to wear the in house robes to cover shoulders before entering the Palatine Chapel. Judy managed to rip hers just getting into it. We queued for the Palatine Chapel…commissioned in the mid 12th Century by the Norman ruler, Roger II…the multicoloured mosaic walls, with lots of gold leaf, were stunning, beneath an intricate honeycomb ceiling. Managed an ice-cream break in the cafe, courtesy of the very generous Tony, before meandering through the Royal Apartments. Parts of that wing are evidently used by local government for meetings and assemblies. 

Ventured back out into the midday sun, Tony and Judy having taken their leave to head for Messina. Found a nice little Sicilian restaurant for lunch...I had stuffed rolled sardines. Ambled across the square to take a look inside the cathedral. It's huge, and include the sarcophagi of Roger II himself, and a couple of family members. There's also a magnificent chapel dedicated to Santa Rosalia, the patron saint of the city...lots of intricate silverware; somewhere inside of which there's a bit of her foot or something. 

Guided the girls back to the accommodation via La Capo, which was evidently winding down. Had a rest before heading out for dinner. Had arranged to meet Shelly in Garibaldi Gardens, as someone had mentioned there were plenty of eateries in square around the garden. Zigzagged our way across town once more, taking in Lampedusa's birthplace, now a block of well-heeled apartments. Bumped into Shelly come back the other way...she hadn't been very impressed with the eateries near the square. Aki and I decided to soldier on to take a look at the magnificent banyan trees in the Gardens, and take a peek at the final residence of Lampedusa...not much to see...another big, dark stuccoed block near the sea. 

Walked back toward town and hooked up with Shelly, Kim, and Anja at a very nice little restaurant in a quiet piazza. Still too full from Sunday's jaunt to contemplate ending the meal with a tiramisu! Zigzagged our way back to our rooms, suitably exhausted!

Sunday 6th September 2026

Alarm at 0830. Got up and made tea, though it took me a few minutes to get the kettle plugged in, the consent being positioned behind a desk. Aki on her way in to Palermo with George from No.127…they are heading to a museum re-designed by Scarpa. Showered. Walked out into the quiet Sunday morning streets…I was greeted with a friendly boungiorno by a couple of elderly folks outside a church…then realised they were begging! 

Made my way to the square in front of the impressive Teatro Massimo and found a table in a little cafe…ordered a latte. Joined the food tour gang outside the theatre…about 12 of us were led off by our guide, Alessandra. She walked around the back of the theatre to the famous Le Capo street market. Another narrow street packed with stalls…it was rammed. She pulled up at a chum’s stall…

he sold us all frozen cappuccinos…very refreshing, though I managed to spill some of mine down my new t-shirt! Had the occasional chat with some of my fellow travellers…one of whom was so allergic to dairy that she couldn’t eat anything on the food tour…her husband enjoyed double portions! I was also approached by one of the Canadian chaps, he having clocked that I was from North London…he turned out to be a Gooner!!! 

We wended our way down the long street, stopping at one eatery to enjoy some deep fried Sicilian street food specialities. Came out at the southern end of the street into the Piazza Duomo, which afforded a look at the cathedral…a weird hotch-potch of different styles as the building took shape over the course of some seven centuries…Norman, Arabic, Baroque. We parked up in the street facing the entrance and were treated to arancini…they were huge! 

Mine was stuffed with sausage and mozzarella. By now we were all struggling to eat our portions, but Alessandra had one more stop planned…cannoli at Santa Caterina’s old monastery near the fontana. We stuffed our faces in the busy courtyard, said our farewells, and went our separate ways. Managed to find Aki and George enjoying lunch in a secluded piazza not too far east of where I’d ended my food tour. Said our farewells to George from No.127, who was flying back to London this evening. Waited in vain for an Uber to show up. Managed to flag down a taxi to drive us to the accommodation…got Aki installed. Rested up for a bit…very warm out there. As we ventured back out to meet Anya, another rowing mate, for dinner, we found Kim and Shelly at the bottom of the marble stairs, struggling with their key box. 

Helped them get into their two bed unit, next door to ours, then walked Aki into the city centre. Stopped for a beer on the main drag. Met up with Anya at the Focaccia where we had had lunch with George…though she was a bit late, having gone to the wrong Piazza San Francesco! Food was OK…we were served by a jolly waitress who recognised us from lunchtime. Walked back up through the crowds having arranged to meet Anya tomorrow at the Norman Palazzo…

Saturday 5th September 2026

 

Alarm at 0800. Aki texted to say she wasn’t rowing today due to feeling seasick yesterday. I watered the plants, porridged, and put some rubbish out before heading for City Airport…got there via DLR…in good time. Got through security in double quick time. Sat with a coffee and a chicken and ham toastie. Boarded my Air Italia flight on time...uneventful journey, landing in Milan on schedule. 

Got through the Entry/Exit System in good time...I'd been a bit worried about getting held up there, and potentially missing my connection to Palermo...it was slow, but I got through with plenty of time to spare. My flight to Palermo was, however, delayed. Killed time with an early evening meal...a slice of crispy Italian pizza and a gelato. The flight to Palermo took off about 40 minutes late, and landed around an hour behind schedule. It meant I wouldn't get to my accommodation until around 2100. Managed to catch the coach into the city...took about 40 minutes. Got off outside the Teatro Garibaldi, and walked across the piazza...the place was buzzing. Lots of families sauntering about. Made my way to the accommodation. Couldn't get enough of a signal to get a message to the host, who had messaged me earlier to say he would open the front door remotely. 

Eventually got through to him, and got in to the property...an old two-storey unit with a marbled staircase. The room, however, was small, and the balcony looked out on to an interior 'courtyard', which had the feel of a large service duct...the view was of a whitewashed wall some 3m opposite! Got myself sorted, and ventured out in search of a bedtime snack...found a little eatery a block away, and ordered a mini pizza bun, and some deep fried cheese! Too hot and sticky to contemplate going to bed, so took a walk down the main drag...a narrow street which was filled with milling crowds, hawkers, eateries, and gelateria. Couldn't believe that so many people were eating at 11 o'clock at night! Walked as far as the Quattro Canti, and then turned back. Shower and bed...

Friday 4th September 2026

Made my way up to Katherine's at No.127, with the guitar strings. I popped in at the GP to return the blood pressure monitor on the way, and picked up a coffee from Big Jo's. Katherine's guitar is in fairly good nick, though the strings are in need of replacing. The machine heads are a bit too battered, notably the one I was using to add the D string...needless to say. the string snapped! So that was a waste of time!!! I suggested she take the instrument to a luthier to get it properly serviced. Lunched at home in a bid to empty the fridge before I head to Sicily tomorrow. Aki FaceTimed from her sick bed...she didn't row today! I think they've found the ocean-going conditions way too challenging! Pretty much finished my packing and opted for an early night...

Thursday 3rd September 2026

Woke around 0700. Dozed until 0800ish, then brought a mug of tea back to bed and did a little doom-scrolling. Got up to make breakfast. Watered the plants. Made some almond and banana cookies. Did most of my packing...finish off on Saturday morning. Ventured into town. Picked up a guitar string for Katherine in Denmark Street. Had a wander about before finding some lunch at Foyles cafe. Bought a t-shirt in Uniqlo, intended for holiday wear. Then made my way to Coal Drops Yard to seek out a red jacket I'd spotted online at YMC...tried it on, but the sleeves were too long...bought a bright green fleece instead...groovy! Bought a pair of linen casual trousers to take to Italy, then made for home via Waitrose. 

Wednesday 2nd September 2026

Woke around 0500 with rooffret. Aki got up around 0730 to water the plants. I followed around 0900...tea and porridge. Aki spotted the bloke who has, on several occassions, offered to replaster the gate post for £120! He sports a walking stick, and look to be in his 70s...I resolved to go out and follow him to see where he lives...he may have a walking stick, but he's pretty swift on his feet! He stopped at Alice's at No.89...I bumped into Dulcie outside No.110, so stopped for a chat, then picked up the trail once my target had walked on. He disappeared up Mitford Road...I stalled, pretending to talk to the hens in the school grounds adjoining...my target stopped a couple of times, ringing doorbells, evidently offering to trim hedges or overgrown shrubs. I gave up, and double-backed to Tesco to buy milk, then walked back home. Aki had finished packing and her suitcase was waiting in the lobby. She headed off for Stansted, via Tottenham Hale, at 1215. We parted at the bus stop. I picked up some Euros I'd ordered from the Post Office, then made my way to the offices of Islington Council. I wanted to know why the Parking Dept hadn't acted on my letter explaining the false registration of a car to our address, as I'd received a visit from the bailiffs yesterday. Had to wait half-an-hour to get seen, and didn't get very far...they recommended I get back in touch with the bailiff and request a written response. I lunched at Belle Epoche, then walked down Upper Street and popped in to the Lloyds Bank branch in Angel with a query regarding the new credit card they'd sent me recently. Paid a visit to Hotel Chocolat, and bought some chocolate! Took a bus back up the Holloway Road. Bought a pie and chips from Waitrose for dinner tonight. Headed for Marylebone after dinner to see an intriguing production of Krapp's Last Tape at The Cockpit Theatre. The actor playing Krapp is 84 and has been diagnosed with Alzheimer's...a prompt corner had been set up on the very edge of the stage, and you could hear the prompter relaying his moves to his earpiece...it was a bit distracting at first, but showed the actor's plight in stark terms...making the performance a very vulnerable and moving one. The prompt had to get up on stage at one point to help him out with re-spooling the reel-to-reel machine. His efforts earned him a standing ovation at the end, from a full house. Great stuff! Walked to Edgware Road tube station and made my way home. Photo from Aki...at dinner with rowing chums somewhere to the north-west of Palermo. Got home around 2130. Watched some highlights from Reading Festival before bath and bed...

Tuesday 1st September 2026

Woke in the early hours with rooffret! When will it end!?! Aki brought me a mug of tea around 0800. Sat up in bed doom-scrolling for a while, before rising to porridge. No word from RoofPro...doesn't look as if it'll be fixed before I head for Sicily. Aki headed off to tai chi. She handed me an envelope that had been posted by hand through our letterbox, addressed to one James Hurrde, the man who doesn't live here! It turned out to be from the bailiff, threatening to come round to take goods worth £576, the amount this chap owes for parking fines in Islington! I rang the number on the notice, and spoke to a very helpful young lady named Ellie...I told her this had been an on-going tale, and that I'd reported the matter to the police, and to Islington...she asked for our Council Tax No., and said we won't hear from them again! Aki returned for lunch. Ventured out in the afternoon...Aki had been recommended an exhibition at the Wellcome Institute, so we headed for Euston, and took a look. There were four or five small exhibitions on, all a bit underwhelming, to be frank, though I liked my photo of the upside down Gormley statue seemingly floating above one of the staff! Caught a No.91 bus back home. Pasta for dinner, with prawns and crab meat. Ice cream and peaches to follow. Nowt on telly. Bath and bed...