Friday, 11 April 2025

Thursday 10th April 2025

Woke around 0830. Aki already up to ready herself for a site meeting in Haringay. Porridged. Took a walk up Highgate Hill…bought a coffee at Gail’s and found a bench in Waterlow Park. Walked home to find Aki back at her laptop. Made a salad to go with the squash and sage slice I’d purchased. Pottered about in the afternoon reading and listening to music. Warmed up the fish pie for an early dinner then set off for Southwark. Just after Waterloo on the Bakerloo line Aki noted in her phone diary that she had put Friday down as the trip to Southwark Playhouse…I’d had it in for Thursday, tonight…checked the tickets to discover she was right and I was wrong! We bailed out at Lambeth North, intending to walk across Waterloo Bridge as it was such a pleasant evening. The walk took us past the IMAX cinema and I noted they were showing “One to One”, the documentary focussing on Lennon and Ono’s move to NYC in 1971…we purchased tickets for the 2000 showing then walked to the South Bank Centre for a drink overlooking the Thames. The movie was bitty…lots of different material, much of it 70s era TV footage of the cultural and political events shaping the USA at the time…and bits of poor quality home video…this didn’t translate well to the huge IMAX screen as the resolution wasn’t good enough…but it was an intriguing watch, centred around a benefit concert John and Yoko put on in Central Park to raise funds for a mental health facility called Willowbrook which housed over 5,000 child inmates in dire conditions. The money raised allowed one-to-one care to be funded. 

Wednesday 9th April 2025

Aki up early to ready herself for cycling to Camden for a works meeting. I got up slowly. After porridging, I walked round to the charity shop to dump some unwanted clothes on them…I was surprised by how cold it was outside…I had to keep an overshirt back, so as to gain an extra layer! Picked up our Grand National winnings…made a £30 profit. Walked down to Upper Street and met Aki in Euphorium for coffee…she then headed for the fishmongers, while I walked on to Uniqlo at Angel. Bought some sweatpants I’d spotted whilst in Japan. Journeyed home via Belle Epoche where I bought a mushroom quiche to take home for lunch. After lunch we ventured into town. First stop was John Lewis where Aki wanted to look at potential monitors for her new MacMini…but they didn’t have much. We bought a wireless Bluetooth speaker, and an Amazon Firestick for our telly. Walked on to Selfridges where Aki looked at monitors and backpacks, but found naught of interest. Hopped on a bus to Tottenham Court Road and visited Currys…no luck there either. Gave up and bussed it home. Aki cooked mackerel for dinner with rice and miso soup. Set the Firestick up…it restores BBC iPlayer to our TV. Watched Eric Clapton: A Life in 12 Bars, then caught European Champions League highlights…Declan Rice’s two free kicks that demolished Real Madrid last night were stunning. Set the JBL speaker up to listen to R6 in the bath…

Tuesday, 8 April 2025

Tuesday 8th April 2025

Woke around 0830. Aki brought me a mug of tea. Got up and porridged. Another £5,000 wiped off of my pension fund this morning…that’s £20,000 down the Swanee since January 6th!!! Read some Dickens. Started cooking dinner early as we are out this afternoon…cooked a chicken chasseur…just need to warm it up later and add vegetables. Made some lunch. Walked to Finsbury Park to the Park Theatre to see the matinee of “Farewell Mr Haffmann”, a short piece that had met with much success in Paris…this is the premiere of the English translation. Set in Nazi occupied Paris, it tells the story of a Jewish jeweller who signs the business over to his gentile underling in return for being hidden in the cellar. The fellow reveals he is sterile, and insists that, as part of the deal, the Jew has sexual relations with his wife in order to bear a much wanted child…all very silly, but good performances, and a moving finale. Walked home for dinner. Watched a bit of telly. Listened to commentary of the last 20 minutes of Arsenal v Real Madrid…the Gooners won a famous victory, 3-0. Early bath and bed.

Monday 7th April 2025

Woke around 0845. Aki already up. Made tea and read Dickens in bed before finally rising to porridge. Aki cycled off to site meeting in Haringey. I did a little more tidying and sorting in the bedrooms. Difficult to juggle the space, as there’s basically no space left! Made some lunch once Aki back home. I walked down to Angel to pick up some socks I’d ordered from Uniqlo…lovely day for it. Collected my goods from an unmanned machine…worked perfectly. Sat out on the upper deck of Angel shopping centre and had a soft drink, then walked up to Farrow & Ball to request a couple of samples for Aki. Hopped on a No.43 bus back to Camden Road and popped into Waitrose. The socks turned out to be the wrong size…I’ll have to return them! Aki cooked a lentil and aubergine bake for dinner. Nowt on telly, save more bad news as share prices continue to plummet…the Orange Twat has cost me £15,000 since he got sworn in!!! 

Monday, 7 April 2025

Sunday 6th April 2025

Noisy music from a nearby party kept me awake until 1245 when I finally nodded off. Woke around 0845…so  it seems to have cured my jet lag! Aki already up readying herself for rowing club. I got up and made tea. Porridged. Aki cycled off eastward. I spent an hour taking up my new jeans prior to taking them up the road for alteration. Finished my ironing. Made myself some lunch., then prepared the fish sauce for tonight’s fish pie. Aki returned…we walked down to the central library to pick up a book she had reserved, then took a turn around Highbury Fields. Made fish pie for dinner, followed by cheese and biscuits. Nowt on telly. Phoned ma and pa…they seemed in good spirits…Kath has a job interview with her former employers tomorrow, then starts the job at Hetton on Tuesday. Had a chat with Jim. He and Emma are planning a wedding for 27th February next year. Read some Dickens before catching The Ten, and MOTD2.

Sunday, 6 April 2025

Saturday 5th April 2025

Woke around 0745…got up and brought tea back to bed. Aki cycled off to buy bread from the Farmer’s Market…I prepared brunch. Lovely sunny day. Did some tidying up in the bedroom. Exercised. George from No.127 knocked on our door to tell Aki that Waitrose were selling tomato plants on the cheap. Asked how we'd gotten on in Japan, I replied that we'd come back to a shit hole...he and Katherine having just gotten back from Kerala, stated that they though London looked like Zurich in comparison...it's all relative! Popped out to put bets on the Grand National...very helpful Paddy Power employee in there who recommended I place each way bets, as they are paying out on the top eight finishes, rather astonishingly! Senior Chief came in 7th at 33/1…our other two horses were nowhere to be seen. Still, it should mean we get our stake money back. Walked to Stroud Green to do some shopping in Tesco. Back home, warmed up some packet rice, and dal, for dinner. Watched “The Ecstasy of Wilko Johnson” via YouTube, ahead of next week’s visit to see the stage version in Southwark. MOTD followed by bath. Very noisy music from a nearby party meant I stayed up surfing the computer for a bit…looking for recommended wireless Bluetooth speakers…

Saturday, 5 April 2025

Friday 4th April 2025

Woke around 0800. Aki already up readying herself for Rowing Club. Made tea. Porridged. Aki cycled off. I set about sorting out my clothes…need a clear out…also did some washing, and hung it out to dry in the backyard…warmest day of the year so far! Made lunch on Aki’s return. We ventured into town. Aki keen to look into buying a new computer before the end of the tax year…she went for an iMac Mini after lengthy conversations with the staff. I bought jeans in the Levi shop on Long Acre...Aki bought a bucket hat and a bum bag. Walked down to Trafalgar Square to get a No.91 bus home. Cooked meatballs with mushrooms, and red pesto for dinner…with linguine. Watched a bit of telly before bath and bed.

Friday, 4 April 2025

Thursday 3rd April 2025

Woke around 0730. Wished Aki a happy 68th birthday…had left her a card and some posh chocolates on the dining table. I popped out to buy croissant for breakfast, which we enjoyed with frothy coffee. Walked Aki down to Upper Street to meet Tammy outside Ottolenghi’s…Tammy was treating Aki to a birthday brunch. I strolled on to the dentist…they could find no record of my previous visit, which I confessed must have been about 10 years ago, as I hated dentists! They put me on a waiting list. 

Caught a No.19 bus from Islington Green to Tottenham Court Road. Had soup in Foyle’s cafe, and read some Dickens. Walked across to Covent Garden and bought a shirt jacket in Muji, then had a browse in Agnes B, and Paul Smith, around the corner. Walked down to Trafalgar Square and hopped on a No.91 back to Holloway. Popped into Waitrose to buy milk. Aki back when I got home…the Birthday badge on the card I’d bought her had prompted the waitress at Ottolenghi’s to bring out a small birthday cake in her honour! 

I told her she should wear it every day. Ventured out for an early dinner at the Great Indian in the company of Helen and Martin. They’d recently returned from a sojourn in Australia, visiting their daughter, who’s working for a big vineyard concern near Melbourne, then touring south-eastern Australia, ending up in Sydney. We shared five different meat and vegetable choices, plus rice and roti…it was very good! Repaired to the North Nineteen for a beer before going home for an early bath and bed…

Thursday, 3 April 2025

Wednesday 2nd April 2025

 

Woke at 0600 and dozed for an hour or so. Got up and brought tea back to bed. Read some “Rudge”. Aki cycled off to Rowing Club. I did my exercises then headed into town…took our unwanted egg poacher round to the charity shop…bumped into Sechs from No.29 and alerted him to the fact that I’d put my guitar on Gumtree…might be a useful upgrade for Oti. Headed for Leicester Square and repaired to Foyles for a coffee and some Dickens. Bought an introduction to Astronomy…in the hope of an educational retirement. Walked up to Uniqlo and bought a couple of cheap tees, then made my way to Hoka in Covent Garden…I’d read an article recommending their hiking boots, so thought I’d buy a pair in the hope of a fit and healthy retirement! Bought Aki some posh birthday chocolates, then jumped on a No.91 bus back to Holloway for a late lunch. Aki was back and had had hers. Sat about listening to music before preparing dinner...warmed up the remainder of the fish stew, with added pancetta, fried potatoes, and broccoli. Watched an intriguing programme that followed the restoration of the ship’s cabin in which Ernest Shackleton died in 1922. Early bath. I stayed up to watch MOTD.

Wednesday, 2 April 2025

Tuesday 1st April 2025

Woke around 0700. Got up and brought tea back to bed. Read for a bit. Porridged. Got the ladder out of the garden shed and climbed onto the roof to clean the skylight. It appears Sush has added a large overhanging pitched roof to their first floor back addition…it ain’t pretty! It looks like a rural bus stop! It turns out it was his response to a leaking flat roof…and it adds a little storage for some of his building gear. Aki not pleased, as we can see it from our office. Tokiko arrived for lunch…and to pick up some purchases Aki had made on her behalf back in the Motherland. Aki put together a tasty salad Nicoise, and I made a quick dessert. Pottered about in the afternoon. Advertised my Takamine electro-acoustic guitar on Gumtree…see if I get any nibbles. Aki made Japanese style chicken and rice filled omelettes for dinner…and used her new cabbage slicer to good effect…my new favourite meal. Nowt on telly…early bath and bed…

Tuesday, 1 April 2025

Monday 31st March 2025

Woke around 0700. Got up and made tea, and got back into bed. Read for a while. Got up and porridged. Did my exercises. Aki sorted out some bits and pieces for the tip, which we loaded into the car. Just as we were about to depart, Vince happened by with news that his 97 year old mother, who lived at No.43, had passed away a week or so ago…the family have Italian roots, and her ashes are to be taken to a mountain top monastery in Amalfi, where they will be interred next to Vince’s father’s. Late lunch after returning from the tip. Walked to Stoke Newington in the sunshine on the off-chance that Aki’s missing spectacles might be in the damaged backpack we’d returned to Know & Love on Saturday…the bag was found to be empty. We marched on to the Tower theatre to check beneath the seats we’d sat in on Saturday afternoon. No luck there either, and nothing had been handed in at the box office. Caught buses back to Holloway and did a little shop in Waitrose. Fried up some venison meatballs for dinner, smothered in arrabiata sauce, and linguine. Finished cleaning up my Takamine guitar, and put a new set of strings on, prior to trying to sell it. Hoping to get £300 for it…

Sunday 30th March 2025

Woke at 0730…the clocks having gone forward. Aki got up to ready herself for Rowing Club. She brought me a mug of tea. Got up and porridged. Nice sunny morning…opted to cycle to Stoke Newington. Had to blow up my bike tyres first, it bring some months since I got me leg over! Got to the theatre in time…bought coffee from the cafe opposite. There were about 8 of us for the director’s workshop…lead by Simona, with help from Lande Belo, and Dan Usztan. Varying experience among us would be directors, but I thought a couple of the young ladies showed great promise…see what happens. Broke at 1245…cycled down to the River Lea and joined Aki and her crew for lunch at the cafe next door to the Rowing Club. Cycled home via Stamford Hill and Finsbury Park…the experience rendered very unpleasant by the appalling state of our roads. Watched Manchester City dump Bournemouth out of the FA Cup. Phoned mum to wish her a happy Mother’s Day…Kath and Jim were there, and they were sitting out in the garden enjoying some sunshine. Knocked together a fish and black bean stew…wasn’t very good, but filled a hole. Aki spent most of the evening vainly searching for the new prescription glasses she’d commissioned while in Tokyo…they didn’t last long! Bath and bed…

Sunday, 30 March 2025

Saturday 29th March 2025

Woke around 0530...which was an improvement on the previous night. Dozed until Aki got up around 0730. Read some "Barnaby Rudge" in bed with a mug of tea. Peanut butter on toast for breakfast. Did some exercises, and some voice work. Prepared bubble and squeak for lunch, with poached eggs. Walked to Stoke Newington in my new trainers. Popped into the gift shop on Church Street to complain about the backpack Aki had bought from them a year ago...one of the shoulder straps had frayed and split apart...bit rubbish! We happened to find the shop owner on duty, and she very graciously gave us our money back, no questions asked. She admired my Keith Haring t-shirt, and told us she’d met him while working in NY back in the day. Had tickets for the matinee of "Shakespeare in Love" at the Tower. It was a sellout. David Taylor had done a fine job, as per usual, though the audience seemed rather subdued…only myself and a woman a couple of rows behind me seemed to be picking up on the clever use of Shakespearean text in Lee Hall’s smart script. There were definitely some ringers in the cast…Will and Viola were making their Tower debuts, but were clearly accomplished actors of a calibre rarely seen in other productions…where does David source his actors? Tried to find a table at Rasa afterwards, but they were booked up…went home and had lemon chicken curry, rice and vegetables instead. Watched some FA Cup football before bath and bed.

Friday 28th March 2025

Despite the unnaturally long day yesterday, I woke around 0330…couldn’t really get back to sleep properly after that. My left knee giving me gip after the 14 hour flight! Aki got up at 0645 to wash her hair…she brought me a large mug of English tea! Breakfasted on iced coffee overnight oats once Kath had gotten up. Aki cycled off to site in Haringey. I drove Kath and her baggage to Kings Cross station’s drop off point, then drove to Waitrose to do a hefty shop. Aki was home when I got back. Finished off the last of the pasta we’d had for dinner last night, smothered in an arrabbiata sauce, for lunch. Read some "Barnaby Rudge". Made dinner...confit duck legs, with roast potatoes, vegetables, and a port wine sauce. Nowt on telly. Very weary. Opted for another early bath and bed...

Friday, 28 March 2025

Thursday 27th March 2025

Alarm at 0630. We forced ourselves out of our beds, made coffee, finished packing, and headed for Shinagawa station. Got to Haneda airport in good time to check in. Got through security, and went in search of breakfast...not much on offer. Made do with an egg and mushroom sandwich, and a coffee. Our flight took off on time at 0950. The 6,000 mile journey took us over the Arctic Circle, and I got some great views of the ice sheets of northern Greenland from my window seat. Watched a couple of movies...an astonishing performance from Joaquin Phoenix in "Joker", and caught "Dune Part II", having seen Part I about four years ago at the Screen on the Green. It passed the time. Finished "Orbital" and started "Barnaby Rudge". 

Landed at Heathrow around 1500 and made our way through Border Control to Baggage Reclaim, then trudged through the endless airport corridors to the Underground station. Hopped on a Piccadilly Line train to Kings Cross, and then took a cab to the front door. We were struck by how dirty the streets of London are, and how scruffy the populace are! Welcome back to Broken Britain. I popped out to Tesco to get some bits and pieces for dinner. Aki and I unpacked, while Kath changed into her jimjams before having a bath. It was a very long and exhausting day...I got to bed at 2200, meaning I’d had a 24 hour waking day, with maybe 30 minutes sleep on the plane.

Thursday, 27 March 2025

Wednesday 26th March 2025

Alarm at 0800… got up and made coffee, breakfasting on ham, cheese and toast, before walking down to Shinagawa train station. Caught a Yamanote Line train to Shinjuku then changed for a line out into the northwestern suburbs where we were met by Chiaki and Yoshi, who were to drive us out into the countryside in search of some early flowering cherry blossom. It turned out to be an hour and a half’s drive, and I soon nodded off on the back seat, propped up by Kath and Aki. 

We stopped in Ashigara for lunch at a little farmer’s cafe which specialised in seasonal fare. I had the meat dish, Aki had the vegetarian, and the others had the fish…it was tasty honestly cooking…the beef in ginger was particularly good. We were then driven to a river bank lined with small flowering cherry trees…pretty but not particularly dramatic, though we stumbled upon a little shrine to the founder of FujiFilm who came from this town and a large FujiFilm factory still dominates today…the fellow died in 2000 aged 101. 

We were dropped off at Odawara rail station by our kind hosts, where we bade them farewell and caught a local train direct to Shinagawa. Bought some bits and pieces in the concourse shop to have for dinner back at the flat…our final evening in Japan. Did some packing ahead of the early start tomorrow morning, and plumped for an early night! Woken at midnight by another apnoea episode…went on for maybe 20 seconds, unable to breath, though it always feels terrifyingly longer! It certainly woke the girls up!!!

Wednesday, 26 March 2025

Tuesday 25th March 2025

Fitful night’s sleep. Got up around 0930 to fix coffee and breakfast. Slow start…Aki not here to chivvy us along. Got going eventually and headed for the Hamarikyu Gardens. Hot work walking from the train station to the gardens…we had intended to end the garden walk at the pier and jump aboard the water bus, but the pier was closed. We paid to get into the gardens, which are built around several ornamental ponds, which are fed from the adjoining estuary, making the ponds tidal. Beautifully laid out and landscaped. 

We walked southward afterward to a new pier head, and bought water bus tickets to Asakusa. Had an hour’s wait so bought some lunch items in a nearby store and sat out in the sun awaiting our boat’s arrival. The river ride took 45 minutes, which we spent above deck watching the city go by, eventually disembarking at Asakusa, where we made for the temple Sensoji…

...a C7th edifice with adjacent pagoda, and a renowned row of some 100 little Edo era shops which line the route from the famous Kaminarimon Gate and it’s giant paper lantern, to the temple at the northern end. The place was heaving! We pushed and shuffled our way down it and sought temporary refuge in the tourist information centre, climbing to the 8th floor viewing platform. Decided to cut our losses and head for Meguro to meet up with Aki and Izumi…got a Gonzales line subway train to Kansa, then made our way to the Yamanote Line…met Aki outside Meguro station. Izumi was in the nearby Tully’s Coffee house and we repaired thence for a cold drink. 


From there we walked to our dinner venue, a little tonkatsu joint, and wedged ourselves onto a small table for four…the food was good, the pork cutlets being very tender. Flagged down a cab on the main drag to despatch us to the Gigabar, where we hooked up with Aki’s cousins Mariko and Takako, and one of her old Kajima workmates. 

Aside from one other gentleman, who got up to play guitar with the house band, we were the only ones in there this evening. I persuaded Mariko to accompany me and the band for a rendition of Heart of Gold, followed by Country Honk…bit messy, but good fun.

Izumi insisted I get up and do another later, so I obliged with a rendition of Jumpin’ Jack Flash, by which time my voice was failing! Parted company with our friends outside the club and hailed a cab back to Shinagawa…fell into bed exhausted!
























Monday 24th March 2025

Woke around 0845. Aki got up to make coffee. I put some breakfast together…ham, egg, cheese and toast that we’d garnered from the 7-Eleven last night. Ventured out, taking a Yamanote line train to Ebisu…Kath and Aki wanted to pick up the glasses they’d had made up a couple of weeks ago. Lunched in a great little ramen joint…very modern set up with tablets at table to order your food from…good value and very tasty. 

Took the Yamanote line to Tokyo station and walked to a little shop renowned for its wrapping paper, amongst other things. The shop is now housed in a small modern 2-storey build with interesting cladding. Bought some stationery. Parted company with Aki, who is heading across town for a catchup with a couple of chums from her youth. Kath and I wandered around the Takashimaya department store, Tokyo branch, a magnificent 1920s edifice near Tokyo station.

There’s an art gallery on the 6th floor…but it was very small, so we failed to kill much time. Repaired to a bar for a beer, then headed back to Shinagawa for dinner at a rather good Italian restaurant…Kath had a salmon salad, while I went for the lasagna. Got back to the accommodation in good time…read some ‘Orbital’ before bed…






Sunday, 23 March 2025

Sunday 23rd March 2025

Fitful night’s sleep on the armoured car bonnet…I’m actually beginning to look forward to the relative comfort of 14 hours in an airplane seat! Breakfasted on coffee, and some pastries we’d bought yesterday. Aki departed to traipse across Greater Tokyo to pick up her suitcase from Noburu’s flat. Kath and I caught a Yamanote line train to Shinjuku, and walked round to the famous Gyoen park and gardens, only to find you needed a reservation to get in. Walked to the Takashimaya Building. 

Went up to the 13th floor viewing platform…lots of little eateries up there but queues at every one…found a Starbucks in the block next door and had mango smoothies…they were so cold they made your face ache! Wandered back into the store and bought some trainers at the Camper shop, then met up with Aki in Tokyo Hands, a shop that seems to sell everything under the sun. 

Aki bought a kitchen knife amongst a myriad of other things. Walked to meet Aki’s friend Miho at a local restaurant…bit posher than we are used to…Miho has good taste, and very generously bought us all dinner! I enjoyed some wagyu beef. Had a night cap in a tiny bar before walking to Shinjuku station and riding the Yamanote Line back to Shinagawa.







Saturday, 22 March 2025

Saturday 22nd March 2025

Aki up with the lark to ready herself for rowing. Kath and I rose around 0830. Rather uncomfortable night…Kath kept falling down the gap in her sofa bed. My mattress is akin to the bonnet of an armoured vehicle! Just five nights to go!!! Walked across town to find breakfast…the cafes in Shimahara station were packed with luggage wielding tourists, so we ventured out the other side of the station complex and found a cafe that did egg and cheese danish pastries in a huge office complex. 

Walked on eastward to the river…there’s a boarding dock there but no information as to sailings…not in English at any rate. Caught a KK line train to Kamata…we were following the map Aki had left us in order to find the fabric shop Kath wanted to visit…unbeknownst to us there are two Kamata stations, and we were at the wrong one. Had to walk across Ota City to find the correct station and get our bearings…it was hot work in the spring sunshine. 

Got there eventually and Kath bought about £50 worth of material, some destined for her Hexham sewing buddy. Got a train back to Shinagawa and dumped the purchases at the flat, and awaited Aki’s return. She’d had a good time on the river but that it was choppy and hard work. 

We ventured out once more mid afternoon, taking a stroll through the neighbourhood. Jumped on a No.96 bus to Azabujuban…a pleasant district to the west of the city centre. Aki had designed the interior of a restaurant here back in the 80s, but Nanao, the chef, had had to close it recently due to redevelopment plans…however, her husband ran a tiny bar around the corner, and as luck would have it he was just opening up…
 
...he recognised Aki and ushered us in for a quiet drink…he is 85, runs the bar by himself (closes up at midnight these days!), smokes 40 cigarettes and downs half a bottle of whisky a day!!! We had a chat for half an hour then went in search of dinner. Very nice little Japanese restaurant in the vicinity…got a bit giddy on the sake. Caught a No.96 bus back to Shibagawa…Kath was in bed by 2030…

Friday, 21 March 2025

Friday 21st March 2025

Alarm at 0800. Descended to the shopping centre next door for ham and eggs for breakfast, finished packing, and checked out. Caught the bus to Hiroshima Airport, about an hour’s ride. Had a couple of hours to kill before our 1405 flight to Tokyo. Had a coffee before going through security. 

Sandwich lunch waiting at the Gate. Landed at Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport around 1530, then took a subway train to Shinagawa. Had to lug our baggage up a rather steep hill to the residential block where our accommodation is located. Tiny little flat, with a narrow double bed for me and Aki, and the sofa bed for Kath. Wasn’t quite what we were expecting, but we’ll have to put up with it for six nights! Got hooked up to the wi-fi and checked the BBC News website, to discover that Heathrow Airport has been closed due to a power outage! Hope they get things back up and running before we fly home next Thursday!!! 

Ventured out in search of dinner. We are evidently residing in a bit of an epicurean desert…ended up in a cheap Italian, half full of rather scruffy looking Aussies. Won’t be going there again! Walked back to the digs via a very very busy 7-Eleven where we picked up some coffee and milk for the morning…Aki had an early night as she plans to go rowing tomorrow morning. I stayed up a while doom-scrolling and reading before shower and bed…

Thursday, 20 March 2025

Thursday 20th March 2025

Woke around 0830…bad hernia repair giving me right hip this morning. Aki and Kath descended to ground zero to buy breakfast from the bakery…ate in our room. Walked to the ferry terminal near the A-Bomb Dome and climbed aboard for the trip down the Otawaga River, and out into the Bay of Hiroshima…we were headed for Miyajima. 

The island was very busy with both human beings, and sika deer. Aki and Kath probably picked up a couple of ticks! We followed the crowd along the seafront to the famous shrine, set in the shallows. Climbed steps to a large timbered temple, then made our way back to the ferry terminal. 

Quick 15 minute ride on the car ferry to Miyajimaguchi, back on the mainland, several kilometres southwest of the city. Jumped on another train to Kuba, where we got a taxi to the stunning Simose Art Museum, set on the coast in an area of heavy industry. 

The reception area is dominated by what look like two magnificent manmade trees, and a mirrored poured resin floor. We enjoyed coffee and cheesecake before paying to get into the exhibition rooms. Aki spotted a camera crew out on the lawn, where they were interviewing the architect himself! She rushed out to get a photo. 

The exhibits are largely housed in six coloured boxes set in an ornamental lake, with large automatic sliding doors to the connecting corridors…it was a bit like walking through the Starship Enterprise. We found our way up to a roof garden, offering extensive views out into the Seto Sea, and a beautifully arranged garden with ponds and decking. 

Jumped on the free shuttle bus to Otsake station and caught a train back toward Hiroshima. Ended the journey with a tram ride back toward our hotel…it was very busy, it being the start of rush hour. Aki was keen to eat some oysters, farmed in their thousands out in the bay…we had seen innumerable oyster beds out at sea.  So we found a little okonomiyaki joint in the block next door to our hotel, and enjoyed fried scallops and oysters with a beer before returning to our rooms. 

Walked across town for dinner at a tonkatsu place, but couldn’t find it…ended up in a little chikatsu joint instead…run by a small but very friendly team who were evidently Anglophiles…nice people!